The journal

Diamonds that made history.

Three famous stones, and what their journeys from rough to crown can teach anyone choosing a diamond today.

Stories from gem history · 5 minute read

Historic illustration of the Imperial State Crown with a large red stone in its front cross
An illustration published in 1919 of the earlier Imperial State Crown, showing the red spinel at the front. Reference illustration. Cyril Davenport · Public domain
The guide in ninety seconds

South Africa · 1905

The Cullinan.

The largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found was recovered near Pretoria, South Africa, in 1905 and weighed 3,106 carats. It was named after Thomas Cullinan, chairman of the mining company, and presented to King Edward VII in 1907.

The stone was cut in Amsterdam by the Asscher firm in 1908 and yielded nine major diamonds. The largest, Cullinan I at 530.2 carats, sits in the Sovereign's Sceptre with Cross. Cullinan II is set in the Imperial State Crown.

Worth knowing: A rough stone loses much of its weight in cutting. The finished diamond is the result of deliberate decisions, not luck.

Further reading: Royal Collection Trust · The Cullinan Diamond

India · recut 1852

The Koh-i-Noor.

Probably from the Golconda mines of central India, the Koh-i-Noor passed between Mughal emperors, Persian shahs, Afghan rulers and the Sikh court before the East India Company took it in 1849 under the Treaty of Lahore and it was surrendered to Queen Victoria.

In 1852 it was recut from about 186 carats to 105.6 carats to suit European taste for brilliance. It was set in the Crown of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother in 1937. Its ownership remains contested, and it is now presented at the Tower of London as a symbol of conquest.

Worth knowing: Recutting can transform a stone's appearance and its weight. Any diamond with a history deserves a clear record of what was done to it.

Further reading: Historic Royal Palaces · The Crown Jewels

France · 1717

The Regent.

A round diamond resting on a green surface
A natural round diamond, photographed face-up. Reference photograph. Gemsphoto · CC BY-SA 3.0

Found in India at the beginning of the eighteenth century, this diamond was bought by Thomas Pitt, governor of Madras, and cut in London to about 140 carats. In 1717 it was sold to Philippe d'Orléans, Regent of France, whose title it carries.

It was set in the coronation crown of Louis XV, later in the hilt of Napoleon's sword, and has been displayed at the Louvre since 1887 among the surviving French Crown Jewels.

Worth knowing: Old cuts were made to glow in candlelight. Judge any diamond in the light you will actually live with.

Further reading: Wikipedia · Regent Diamond

What these stones teach a buyer.

Famous diamonds are exceptional in size, but the questions they raise are the same for any stone. Where did it come from, and can that be documented? Who cut it, and how well? What has been done to it since? A grading report answers some of this; the stone itself, in your hand, answers the rest.

Names and legends add romance, not quality. The quality is in the light.

Worth knowing: Ask for the report, the measurements and time with the stone. That is how every good diamond decision is made.

Further reading: Read the diamond buying guide