Coloured stones with a past.
A spinel mistaken for a ruby, a sapphire that survived a heist, and an emerald from a maharani's necklace.
Spinel · Royal Collection
The Timur Ruby.
For centuries this 352-carat red stone was called a ruby. It is a spinel, polished rather than faceted, and inscribed with the names of Mughal and Persian rulers who owned it, including Jahangir, Shah Jahan, Farrukhsiyar and Nader Shah. The connection to Timur himself is now considered a later invention.
It was shown at the Great Exhibition of 1851, then presented to Queen Victoria by the East India Company. Garrard set it in a gold and diamond necklace in 1853, and it remains in the Royal Collection.
Worth knowing: Until modern gemmology, red spinel and ruby were routinely confused. Today a laboratory report settles the question in minutes.
Further reading: Wikipedia · Timur Ruby
Sapphire · New York
The Star of India.
At 563 carats, this greyish-blue star sapphire from Sri Lanka is the largest gem-quality star sapphire known. Its star is created by fine needles of rutile inside the stone, and it shows on both sides. J.P. Morgan gave it to the American Museum of Natural History around 1900.
In 1964 it was stolen from the museum in a celebrated heist and recovered the following year. It is on display in New York today.
Worth knowing: Some inclusions create beauty. A star or a cat's eye is an inclusion working in the stone's favour.
Further reading: American Museum of Natural History · Star of India
Emerald · Smithsonian
The Chalk Emerald.
A 37.82-carat Colombian emerald from the mining area around Muzo, prized for a deep, velvety green and unusual clarity. Tradition holds that it was the centrepiece of a necklace belonging to a Maharani of Baroda.
It was later recut and set by Harry Winston in a ring surrounded by sixty pear-shaped diamonds. O. Roy and Claire Chalk gave it to the Smithsonian in 1972, where it is shown near the Hope Diamond.
Worth knowing: Colombian origin carries a premium. Ask what the origin opinion on a report is based on.
Further reading: Smithsonian · Chalk Emerald
Reading a stone's story.
Provenance, treatment and origin are the three questions behind every coloured stone. Provenance is who owned it. Treatment is what has been done to improve it, such as heating or filling. Origin is where it was mined, which a laboratory can often determine from the stone's chemistry and inclusions.
A famous stone has all three written down. A stone you buy should too.
Worth knowing: Ask for the treatment disclosure and, for a significant stone, an origin report from a recognised laboratory.
Further reading: Read the coloured gemstone guide